2004 TTR 125 Carb Help

Hello:

My daughter's 2004 TTR 125 has always been hard to start.  You have to run the battery nearly dead every time.  When it's below 60 degrees, forget it without starting fluid.  I spent $70 at the dealer who said to lay it on its side before I start it.  My daughter has a hard time doing that.

I have been told to replace the idle jet with a 17.5.  I have a manual and have taken apart many carbs, just never one on a motorcycle.  The bike is completely stock.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.  This is agreat bike-- once it's warmed up.  

Yeah, same thing happens to me cause I never winter prep before, then get my carb insanely gummed up. It might just be some old gas has evaportaed partially in the carb, and is preventing starting the bike to be easy. Its really simple, just take off the carb, and dip it in a nice bath of carb cleaner, stick her back on, choke it, kick it, and go.  
RIP old dirtrider

"Im not a pro mechanic but I know enough to fix what needs to be done" Poolstick97, 2010

"My name is CHUD fh and I used to be funny"

MOP for best mullet of the year
Kweewers for best yarn of the year

Okay first off...Lay it on it's side??SMACK your dealer!! Leaning it on its side will cause the fuel to run out of your float bowl and out the overflow and make it hard to start.
Make shure your air screw is set to stock on the carb. Then pull the idle jet and spray with carb cleaner and replace. Then with a new plug and the choke out and NO Throttle, turn it over. And see what that does! You wan't fresh mix as well. Try this before you pull the carb.  
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DIABETES SUX!

Thank you for the advice; but, I just paid the dealer to clean the carb, I always use clean fuel, and the bike has not set over the winter.  It's done this all summer long and it is just worse in the cold.  Should I replace the entire carb or try a bigger idle jet.  I can barely get the bike started on ether.  It takes at least 20 tries.  Once it's warmed up it runs flawless.

Are all TTR 125's built this way?  Some have told me that none of them will run cold.  I'm about to sell it an buy a Honda CRF 250...........  

We had one of these and it was eaiser to kick start the first time. And when you say fresh fuel do you mean premium fresh. Always use premium.  
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I love this dirt stuff.

When it starts, Does it idle okay? Is your air screw set to stock? And did you follow the cold start proceedure i described? After that then go to next jet size.  
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DIABETES SUX!

When it's warmed up it idles pretty well.  Can you tell me the stock air set screw setting?

Is premium fuel a must?  I'm using regular unleaded.

Thanks.  

Not necessary, but I would highly recomend it.  
RIP old dirtrider

"Im not a pro mechanic but I know enough to fix what needs to be done" Poolstick97, 2010

"My name is CHUD fh and I used to be funny"

MOP for best mullet of the year
Kweewers for best yarn of the year

There are many threads on this same issue at:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37

I have done the jetting and airbox mods discussed there on my son's TTR and it makes a world of difference. It is awfully lean from the factory. You'll be jetting up anyway, so do the airbox mod while you're at it.

Here is a step by step:

http://www.ovrrdrive.made2own.com/TT125_jetting/TTR125Jetting&AirboxMods.pdf

Anyone with some mechanical ability can do it, so jump in. You'll learn about the bike in the process.
"Lay it on it's side" ?!? Your dealer is an idiot.

Happy wrenching!  

Lay it on it's side... I think you need to lay your dealer on his side!  A few kicks and that pinner will be running all right!  

It sure looks like the guy above me has got you pointed in the right place! A few thoughts though.. it sounds aweful lean on the pilot jet.  Start at 1.5 turns out on the fuel screw.  Try firing it up - if it doesn't light up, then go another half turn out.  If it still doesn't go, then give it another 1/2 turn.  Once you're at 2 1/2 turns (and it still won't start normally), you need a bigger pilot. Start back at 1.5 turns and keep following the procedure until it starts easily on choke when cold and fairly easily when warm with no choke.

Take that ether and give it to your retarded dealer - if you worked him over as much as I would, he'll be needing it to dull the pain in his backside - at minimum it might kill the part of his brain that thought it knew something about motorcycles.  
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Here we go again!

PUSH HER ON THE BACK OF THE BICK AND TELL HER TO PULL THE CLUTCH THEN WHEN YOU LET GO POP THE CLUTCH IN 1 OR 2 GEAR  

OMRiderFixer:
Thank you for the advice; but, I just paid the dealer to clean the carb, I always use clean fuel, and the bike has not set over the winter.  It's done this all summer long and it is just worse in the cold.  Should I replace the entire carb or try a bigger idle jet.  I can barely get the bike started on ether.  It takes at least 20 tries.  Once it's warmed up it runs flawless.

Are all TTR 125's built this way?  Some have told me that none of them will run cold.  I'm about to sell it an buy a Honda CRF 250...........

No, ttr125's are not built this way at all. My old one ran perfectly and started right up and didn't have a problem with it for all 2 and a half years we had it.  
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Lancaster, PA
2007 Outlaw 525
Buying and selling bikes

I have some experience in this/ have rebuilt many carbs sucessfully.
Any bike not running right is fuel or spark problem.
Almost always carb problem.
Solution: rebuild carb to stock specs.

Take it all apart, noting how everything was together. Take pics if necessary.
Spray & clean all parts with carb cleaner and old toothbrush.
Air blast out all air and fuel orifices after carb cleaner shooting.
Any that won't "blow thru" should be examined/ repeat process.
Fine wire will help clear passages that compressed air and carb cleaner wont. (it won't damage jets)
FYI dealers clean carbs alot due to ethanol in gas which attracts moisture and clogs jets.
Most problems are 1) clogged pilot jet (use fine wire & air) ,
                                  2) misadjusted / sticking float,
                                  3) Misadjusted air (fuel) screw

Check float operation by blowing in fuel line and pushing float up.
It should move smoothly thru the arc and shut off halfway up. Adjust the tab if needed (CAREFULLY).
Make sure you can see thru jets and the hole is round (no dirt inside).
Assemble carefully making sure everything works, is clean, and goes back the way it was (or is supposed to be).
Make sure the throttle and choke are working properly.
TAKE OUT ANY RAG YOU PUT IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.
Clean air box / filter and check for any cracks or holes in intake tubes / manifolds.
Put tank on and start bike. Make sure it runs correctly before putting the rest back together.
Write any important notations on your manuel for next time.

Gas from overflow is usually float stuck down.
Won't idle is usually clogged pilot jet (and / or misadjusted air screw) .
Blubbers at certain RPM means air screw out of adjustment (or possibly main jet needle).
RPM stays high when you close throttle is usually air leak in boot / faulty seal.

For hard to reach air screws, BJ racing (and some other places) makes a special tool or longer air screw.

I've found these suggestions to work for most simple carbs. Good luck.