Valve Adjust Procedure for YZ250F/YZ400F/426F/450F

Not the cheapest way to go but I got the shim kit because we have 3 4-strokes and not always enough time to be running back an forth to the dealer.

After a few checks I will have saved money in gas juat driveing up there.  
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I love this dirt stuff.

3-4strokes? Nice, yeah I'd buy the kit 2. Isn't amazing though how little u actually have 2 re-shim?
Or is that just my experience?  

I have the HotRods shim kit too - cost me under $70.  Buying the shims individually cost me $10 apiece.  I have 3 4T's, like Pop, to maintain.  I've re-shimmed my CRF - it took 2 shims (that's $20) and my YZ250F - it also took 2 shims (Now we're at $40).  Three more shims, and I've covered the cost of the kit. I think it's a bargain!  
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ML - when someone tells me they have to re-shim very little, and it's someone i KNOW is bothering to check their clearnaces regularly (like you), that tells me they know how to maintain a bike properly!  #1 eater of valve seats?  Dust from a poorly serviced and sealed air filter.  #2 - dirty oil.  #3 bouncing the motor off the rev limiter all the time.  
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If you don't hear the rev limiter how do you know when to shift? JK  

Bill H.
Temperance, Mi
2000 CR250R
1991 YZ125

We dont have to change shims much eather.

But like skip said, $10 each and it adds up fast.  
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I love this dirt stuff.

Skip, I feel the same way. This past weekend I helped a friend of mine put in a HRC hop up kit (stage 1,I think)into his 06 trx450r. I've been riding with him 4 a year and a half and he always has that the throttle 2 the stop. But, after every ride he services it and checks his valves regularly . I was reluctant 2 put the kit in, noting that he has close to 100 hours on it but when I looked inside, you could eat off the cam-no bluing or scolloping -no pitting it was almost a shame 2 take the cam out.
He bought the hot cams shim kit 2 and the bike went back toghether with out us opening the box!! next week he wants to but in a new piston and rings ( finnally    ) I cant wait 2 see the cylinder.  

U know Bill its funny u say that but when I ride with my Honda buddies they are bounicing of the limiter almost every gear and Yamaha i think is set much higher i have never heard my limiter. (I'm probably not riding hard enough   )  

I bet it's picture perfect - and I wager so will be the rings and piston!  If the valvetrain is that good, then the rest of the motor will be too!  Gotta love Japanese engineering  
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skipkh:
I bet it's picture perfect - and I wager so will be the rings and piston!  If the valvetrain is that good, then the rest of the motor will be too!  Gotta love Japanese engineering

Thats why i'm  a firm believer in oil change every ride. imagine all the moving parts in a four stroke and all lubed by a single quart of oil!!  (Yamies have more). He uses synthetic.  

I'm on the fence with oil changes.  One thing I NEVER do is to change the oil without changing the filter too.  I use hour meters on all my bikes.  I change the oil and filter after break-in, and then subsequently every 10 hours.  The oil is still clean when it comes out, but then again I don't ride my bikes very hard.  I've run lots of oils over the years, but lately I've settled on Mobil One 4-stroke racing oil for my thumpers and Gear Saver / Yamalube 2R for my ring-dingers...  I've never burned a tranny bearing, my cylinders last and last, my cranks stay within spec, my rings and pistons are like new, and my cams are perfect.  I'm a HUGE believer in Mobil 1 and GearSaver, and 2R for the premix..the only thing I service every day of riding is my air filter.  I've personally witnessed a Honda CRF250 valve clearance move .003" in one afternoon on the track!  I showed a buddy how to shim his valves on the Unicam - had the clearances perfect.  I tried to show him how to service his air filter (it was filthy) and he was in a hurry to get home and said he'd do it in the morning before riding. At the end of the day we went back to my house and I was going to swap my filter and since he was already grilling, I was going to service his at the same time.  Still filthy.  So I pulled his valve cover and checked the clearances again - they tightend up in ONE day! I am convinced it was the dirty filter because he doesn't ride hard enough to be on the limiter.  
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It takes me 2 days to do an air filter. First i wash it in the solvent tank and then ring it out. Then i take it to the kitchen
(when the GF isn't looking  :smirk and wash it in hot water with Dawn dish soap. Then I blow it out with compressed air, but i never can seem to get out all the water, so I let it air dry for at least 24hrs before i will oil it. (I used 2 use Belray in a bottle , now I use PJ1 Spray on)If i don't i will surely trap water in the fibers. it takes longer but the added time is worth it, my Ring ding has a dual stage filter and i have never seen a spec of dirt on the inner stage    

I follow the exact same procedure as you ML!  Only difference is that I have 3 filters for each bike, and do them all at once (and rotate them, so it's less time consuming) and I still use Bel Ray Foam Filter oil - I guess I'm old school  I use Twin-Air filters and love 'em!  
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skipkh:
I follow the exact same procedure as you ML!  Only difference is that I have 3 filters for each bike, and do them all at once (and rotate them, so it's less time consuming) and I still use Bel Ray Foam Filter oil - I guess I'm old school  I use Twin-Air filters and love 'em!

Do u vary the amount of oil on the inner stage or do u keep it dry?  

I run an even coat of oil on both stages. Once the filter is dry I put it in a ziploc baggie and add about 1/4 cup of oil.  Half to the outside, the other half to the inside.  I then close the baggie and massage the filter until the oil is evenly ditributed.  I have it so that I know how much oil it will take without being oversaturated - if anything I might need to add a teaspoon..  
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