yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 09:42 AM
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While having to set up my bike to ride this morning, thought I would post a review of how I do it in hopes this will answer some questions for some of the newbies on the board and stress the importance of a pre-ride check. It will not only save your bike from damage but could possibly save you from injury as well.
CLEAN OIL FILTER CHECK
When doing my oil filter, I use No Toil for good protection and easy cleanup. Also remember to seal your filter to the box with lithium soap-based grease. For cleaning instructions, see Dave's sticky thread.
COOLANT CHECK Nice and full. If not, fill with 50% distilled water and 50% coolant. TRANS OIL CHECK On this bike and most YZs, you will find this on the right-hand side, right in front of the back brake lever. You will note this screw will have a copper washer, the only one of two, the other being the coolant bleeder. When checking the trans oil, I personally like a good flow coming out of the check hole. If it's just a constant drip, as stated in the manual, I add a little to it until it flows good, as some of these check holes were made a little low for the bike. In this case, on my YZ250, it should flow well with 0.79 US quart. If it's low, I personally use Belray Gear Saver.
Also remember to make sure that the copper washer on these check holes is in good shape and replace if needed. PLUG CHECK Good plug and burning golden brown, good to go. Always carry a spare. BRAKE CHECK P.S. And yes, this is a brand new one -- I check for proper free play and lube as well. I'm using TriFlow.
CLUTCH CHECK I like my free play at a full half inch before engagement. Normal is about 1/8 or the size of a nickel. Refer to your manual. If not where I like it, you will see the boot is pulled off, and if the speed dial-in knob will not get me there, you will see the adjustors when you pull the boot. Adjust and lube as well.
SPOKE CHECK This is important and should be done after every long ride, especially after break-in period if new bike. There are three ways to do this. One is to use a spoke wrench with torque control, done every 20 hours or so. The fastest way, and what most of us do, is to use the two-finger pull where the spokes meet each other. Both should pull together evenly with only an eighth inch of play. Another way, which I use, is the spoke tap. When doing this, you start from a true spoke and tap every third spoke as you go around. You should hear the same note. Repeat process on both sides.
TIRE PRESSURE CHECK
When doing this, make sure you use a reliable pressure gauge. In this case, on my Dunlops, I'm looking for 15 PSI. When filling, I use a simple, cheap air compressor ($20), rated for 300 PSI, so you can do your cars, too. Be sure to recheck with the original gauge if using a compressor rated this high, since the compressor gauge may be off a little. This would be a good time, once in a while, when pressure is low and tire is cold, to loosen the bead stopper. A tilted tire valve stem will let you know that the tire is off its position on the rim.
CHAIN CHECK
An often-asked question, to say the least! The chain should be checked while on a stand from the screw of the chain guard on the swing arm, when stretched upward, should measure 1.9 to 2.3 inches. As you can see, mine is perfect A quick way is to be able to put two fingers snug under it at the same point. Turn the back tire and visually inspect the links and your sprockets at the same time to look for any problems. At that point, lube chain well. I like to spray mine right where the chain leaves the sprocket while moving the tire, and then once on the bottom to get the inside of the chain. I'm using MotoX synthetic chain lube 622.
TORQUE CHECK
A torque wrench is MANDATORY on a dirt bike. Check all bolts for proper torque. See your manual.
ALL IS GREASED, as it was done before, and I use Belray waterproof grease.
MIXING FUEL Notice I am using my handy-dandy Ratio Rite at a perfect 32 to 1 ratio for my YZ250, using Belray H1R synthetic racing oil (optional). Be sure, when using the Ratio Rate, to look at the top of the cup to be sure you're mixing for the right amount of gas (2 1/2 gallons, 2 gallons, 1 gallon, etc.) Then look down and you will see the 32 to 1 under that column. Adding FRESH mix, a tip: always add your oil to the gas can before the gas, then do the 2-stroke shake dance very well. Fresh mix is important to keep the bike running crisp. I'm mixing with 93 octane here with no problems at all. Note: when closing your gas cap, you may see an arrow on the air release tube. This is there for a reason. Make sure it is facing you if you are sitting on the bike. This is to prevent vent clogging. If you do not have an arrow, then I always turn my gas cap to the left 1/2 turn before screwing in. It will keep your breather hose from kinking.
At this point, do a final lookover at your radiator fins, cables loose from their fittings, and an overall check around, including your muffler not being clogged and plug being out.
Please remember that even while doing these simple checks and adjustments, your manual is your best friend. While these checks should be done on every bike, the specs will vary, and having your manual next to you is priceless for those specs.
Now, go grab every bit of safety gear you can get your hands on, and go out and enjoy your day of good, safe riding, KNOWING that the bike and you are set up the best they can be for a great day of riding. Now go have fun!
This thread may be simple to some and a little long, but this is how I do, and if it's good for me, it's good for you Let's be safe out there, people. YZ WOODS!
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yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 10:02 AM
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skipkh
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Posted: 05/31/08 10:10 AM
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yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 10:23 AM
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skipkh
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Posted: 05/31/08 10:25 AM
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skipkh
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Posted: 05/31/08 10:31 AM
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yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 11:00 AM
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Posted: 05/31/08 11:20 AM
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yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 11:39 AM
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skipkh
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Posted: 05/31/08 11:41 AM
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92rm125
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Posted: 05/31/08 11:45 AM
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yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 12:00 PM
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92rm125
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Posted: 05/31/08 12:03 PM
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yzwoods
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Posted: 05/31/08 03:39 PM
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chud
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Posted: 05/31/08 04:58 PM
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