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125 FOURSTROKE TOP END REBUILD
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/13/08 07:15 AM
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O.K. so I am doing the piston in my 125 fourstroke and was just wondering if there was anything special I needed to do or watch for when taking it apart with regards to the cam position on the piston position anything that could effect the timing or operation of the bike when I put it back together...I do not have a manual and unfortunatly I cant afford to buy one so I am really hoping you guys can help me out here...
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Skipper
Addict
| Posts: 4029
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 06/13/08 11:34 AM
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The cams will have timing marks on them that have to be lined up when the piston is at Top Dead Center... That being said, this job is next to impossible to get right without a manual. You won't know the proper torque values, the clearances that need precise measurement, the timing procedure - you will likely have HUGE problems unless you can put your nads on a manual for your bike.
**
Here we go again!
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/17/08 04:09 AM
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does anyone have or know where I might be able to find the torque values or clearences for the bike? is there something on the web like those yamaha manuals someone found...any help would be great thank-you...
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/17/08 08:53 AM
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If anyone could help me out I would be very greatful...I have only really done 2 strokes in the past and they are very simple really...any help would be appreciated...
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/17/08 09:51 AM
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skip, woods, dl, chud anyone I really need the advice...help a brother get back out riding...I have all the tools I really expected it to be fairly simple..I marked piston location, cam gear on the shaft even link to tooth after I thought about what I had opened up...I really want to learn and you guys all seem very knowledgeable in every area...I will be very very greatfull, I am only dong the job because I am fairly handy with tools and cant afford to buy the parts and pay a mechanic, I did all the work on my 2 stroke and really didnt think this would be much of an issue but it sounds like from what skip said I am gonna be totally screwed so if you could be so kind to lend so advice, any advice is appreciated...thank-you.
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Skipper
Addict
| Posts: 4029
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 06/18/08 07:48 AM
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headfirst, what kind of bike is it (make, model, year)? all we know is it's a 125 4-stroke. Let's start with that info, and see what we can do
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Here we go again!
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yzwoods
Addict
| Posts: 11401
| Joined: 05/06
Posted: 06/18/08 08:16 AM
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You definetly have the right screen name!![]() Awnser skip. Then we can move on. And do you have the manual? And a tourq wrench? feeler gauges? Pin It could help here.
-------------------- Ruff!
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/18/08 08:25 AM
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its a suzuki 03 dr125 no manual torque wrench yes (dads) feeler guages yes (dads)
thanks guys I do appreciate it
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yz4me
Enthusiast
| Posts: 336
| Joined: 04/08
Posted: 06/18/08 08:28 AM
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is it a DRZ that year? I think I had the same bike come to me in a basket not long ago...still working on it now...headfirst you definatly have the right screen name but dont worrry your in good hands with these guys...I will be watching along and learning aswell...I really need to start learning more about the thumpers...this will be good...
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Skipper
Addict
| Posts: 4029
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 06/18/08 08:33 AM
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OK - here's the help I can provide. Before taking it apart, put the piston at TDC with all the valves closed (no cam lobe bearing on any valve). Now make a note of where the dot(s) on the cam sprocket line up. You will need this later. When you take the cam sprocket off, make sure to zip-tie the timing chain to something or it will fall in the case. Also, stuff a rag under the piston and in the cam chain hollow so that nothing falls in the bottom of the motor. So you should be able to remove the valve cover, remove the caps on the cam, remove the cam sprockets and cams, and then remove the head. From there you can remove the cylinder and change the pistons and rings.
Without the shop manual though, you will be unable to determine the proper specification for the bore diameter, ring positions, end-gap of rings, torque specs for the cylinder base studs, torque for the cylinder head bolts, or torque for the cam bearing caps (just to name a few). I cannot emphasize enough how critical it is to have the shop manual. It would be VERY unwise to attempt this job without one.... you would be guaranteed to have problems.
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Here we go again!
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/18/08 09:02 AM
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everything is apart already I have the piston in and the head on just the top piece left and put the shaft back in gear on and chain, anything special in lining everything up that I need to watch for?
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headfirst
New User
| Posts: 18
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 06/18/08 09:03 AM
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I replaced all the gaskets and got a new cam plug when I got the piston
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yzwoods
Addict
| Posts: 11401
| Joined: 05/06
Posted: 06/18/08 09:03 AM
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With the manual i could provide my (limited) exp on doing this and willing to have my racer friend chime in to help. But Skip just gave you the best advice that i KNOW to be right. This is a no can do without a SERVICE manual. (I) would not attemt it! Just trying to save you money and a HUGE headach. Just my thoughts.
-------------------- Ruff!
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yz4me
Enthusiast
| Posts: 336
| Joined: 04/08
Posted: 06/18/08 09:15 AM
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oh goody this is where I am at with the one brought to me aswell...my parts people wont let me borrow their pages...and a manual is $110 to buy and nothing available from clymers....damn this sucks
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Skipper
Addict
| Posts: 4029
| Joined: 01/08
Posted: 06/18/08 10:23 AM
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Headfirst - you have to set the piston at TDC, then properly alignn the marks on the can sprockets, otherwise you will have BIG problems. That's what you need to lookout for.
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Here we go again!
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