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coolant question

 
Jake150R Jake150R
New User | Posts: 14 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 07/25/08
09:03 PM

i was just wondering if i can just add this motul coolant i bought, and just add it to the factory honda stuff without having to drain out the rads first, its the lime green 'expert coolant' stuff and it says on the bottle 'compatible with all coolants' or something like that.  

 
bhorrigan bhorrigan
Addict | Posts: 3297 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 07/25/08
09:15 PM

Are you talking about Motocool?  
If so just drain the old fluid and fill your radiators with it.  It's a no mix needed product.  I would drain the old fluid instead of just filling because coolant does get contaminated and breaks down.  I change my coolant at least once a year.  

Bill H. 2000 CR250R

 
Jake150R Jake150R
New User | Posts: 14 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 07/27/08
04:04 PM

yes it is, and also they say absolutely nothing on draining the coolant on my crf150r in the manuel, i know its the bolt on the bottom of the water pump cover with the copper washer, but do i just undo the bolt, let it drain for about 15 minutes and add in the new fluid? or is there more to it, because in the owners manuel they tell you to just take it to the shop which is just a waste of like $100...  

 
bhorrigan bhorrigan
Addict | Posts: 3297 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 07/28/08
06:06 AM

It is a waste of money to go to the shop for that.

1. Place something to catch fluid.
2. Pull plug.
3. Remove radiator cap.
4. Tilt bike to the right after flow slows to a trickle.
5. Plug it back up and torque to specs.
6. Fill the radiator.
7. Tilt the bike left (if you have 2 radiators) to even out the coolant.
8. Top it off and put the cap back on.

Real easy.  

Bill H. 2000 CR250R

 
yzwoods yzwoods
Addict | Posts: 11843 | Joined: 05/06
Posted: 07/28/08
06:35 AM

Thats why he is a addict!  
--------------------
Ruff!

 
Jake150R Jake150R
New User | Posts: 14 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 07/28/08
07:37 PM

bhorrigan:
It is a waste of money to go to the shop for that.

1. Place something to catch fluid.
2. Pull plug.
3. Remove radiator cap.
4. Tilt bike to the right after flow slows to a trickle.
5. Plug it back up and torque to specs.
6. Fill the radiator.
7. Tilt the bike left (if you have 2 radiators) to even out the coolant.
8. Top it off and put the cap back on.

Real easy.


i know it is, i just wasn't sure if there was anything special to do when draining it, like if i needed to flush the old stuff out so the new stuff doesn't get contaminated or something like that, thanks though man.  

 
Will12546 Will12546
Guru | Posts: 842 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 08/22/08
06:39 PM

id take a garden hose put it in teh filler cap and run it til clear water come sout just for kicks  
========================================

woods is a beast(had to make him
happy)
having a throttle that keeps sticking open well u simply just cut it off...(not to be taken seriously) eh 2ride?

03 rm125

2stroke eff tee dubba u

the key to having a buttery smooth clutch pull is well..butter of course

 
elko6 elko6
Addict | Posts: 4386 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 08/22/08
06:54 PM

no not a garden hose. i use a garden hose to just flush it but your suppose to use distilled water.  
______________________________
Ride 2 strokes, buy 2 strokes, save the 2 stroke.

1998 cr125
2002 cr80

 
Skipper Skipper
Addict | Posts: 4029 | Joined: 01/08
Posted: 08/22/08
07:41 PM

Jake,

That bike's jetting was horrible.  I've done a lot of work with the CRF150R, so here's a hint to make it run better (and cooler)

Run the #42 pilot jet
Run the #140 main jet

Those two changes make a BIG difference!  
**

Here we go again!

 
Maple Leaf MX Maple Leaf MX
Addict | Posts: 2455 | Joined: 08/07
Posted: 08/22/08
07:46 PM

The question is, how big of a difference mr. skipper?  

 
Skipper Skipper
Addict | Posts: 4029 | Joined: 01/08
Posted: 08/23/08
10:15 AM

HUGE!

The 38 pilot those bikes shipped with is WAY lean and causes overheating, stalling, and crappy throttle response.  It's not effective at sea level, all the way up to 12,000' - it's literally useless.

This bike is VERY sensitive to the pilot jet and airscrew.  Get it wrong and the bike gets hard to start, bogs like crazy, and stalls everytime you stop.

42 pilot is ideal, and just dial in the airscrew for peak RPM. At sea level you can also run the 45, but for most the 42 is great.

The 138 factory main is ok, but a little lean.  I'd go up on the main until the topend feels flat, then back down one main size.  Ona  stock motor, this is going to end up around 140 or 142 on the main, depending on temps.

The 2007 NHNR needle worked better than the 08 NMQS needle.  On the 07, you have to do the Accellerator Pump linkage o-ring mod or the stumble with sudden throttle changes is flat-out dangerous.  The 08 doesn't have this problem (Honda fixed it in the carb).  The Boyesen QS (not the QS2) eliminates the bog altogether.

I cannot overstress how sensitive this motor is to the pilot circuit.  I can think of no circumstance where the bike should have any less than a 42 pilot.  
**

Here we go again!

 

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