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suspension oil change

  
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suspension oil change

 
elko6 elko6
Addict | Posts: 7524 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 11/11/08
08:37 PM

so ML is right about rebuilding the forks. All you need is to buy the bushings and seals, which cost under 100 dollars from pivot works. With a manual you should have no trouble replacing the bushings, seals and oil.

The only question I have which I can't find in my manual is how to rebuild the shock. I can't find any bushing kits or anything online and my manual only shows how to change the oil.  

 
daggit daggit
Addict | Posts: 4664 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/12/08
06:43 AM

I have taken front forks apart, changed the seals and oil, but I am not sure what to look for as far as wear and tear.  
__________
"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing some people out there having fun on motorcycles. It makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen

 
csully csully
Addict | Posts: 5142 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 11/12/08
06:50 AM

well inspect the inner leg really well for any nicks, scratches, gouges, discoloration, etc.  if they have any of those things, changes are you'll need to replace them....as far as internals go, i'm not really sure what to look for either...haha  
.................................

"Only the desert has a fascination to ride alone in the sun in the forever unpossessed country away from man. That is a great temptation."
--D.H. Lawrence

 
masterlink masterlink
Addict | Posts: 5205 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 11/12/08
06:55 AM

csully:
well inspect the inner leg really well for any nicks, scratches, gouges, discoloration, etc.  if they have any of those things, changes are you'll need to replace them....as far as internals go, i'm not really sure what to look for either...haha

same stuff CS. wear on any components is very visible and routine rebuilds means there really wasn't anything wrong to begin with.

Now if u take a fork apart because u wiped out and it won't go up and down or because u have stiction at certain part of the travel then u may need to use a dial indicator to check for out of round. that'll be more complex at the least.  
masterlinkmasterlink
masterlink

 
chudster chudster
Addict | Posts: 3674 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 11/12/08
07:20 AM

How many times are you gonna go to TT. lol
If anyone wants the pdf for rear shock rebuild let me know.

Mr. Turkey is da man.  
+++++++++++++++++++++

Even a broken clock is right twice a day.

 
elko6 elko6
Addict | Posts: 7524 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 11/12/08
12:12 PM

A rear shock rebuild from what I found is a lot easier. Pivot works has another kit, I had to go directly to their website to find it, for $40 for the rear shock. Inside the top of the shock is a shock body I think its called or shock absorber it might be. It is a peice of rubber with O rings and seals on it. The kit comes with everything to replace the o-rings and seals. Their isn't really much to the forks or shock, so with a manual and some wrenching abilities you should be able to rebuild your suspension yourself with no problem. For less then $150 you can rebuild the forks and shock yourself compared to the 350 that a professional would cost.  

 
spazmoso spazmoso
Enthusiast | Posts: 564 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 01/03/09
10:07 AM

if your seals are still good you can even keep them till they go bad!if your fork springs are made for your weight all youll need is a suspension measuring tool,otherwise motosport.com has onlineset-up or call for 1 on 1 parts,likeperfect springs for your weight and so on.rocky moantain.com carries a brand(tusk)for way cheaper seal drivers and measuring tools look reasherch before you buy.once you have your fork off,a impact gun is way easy,but you have to break the topnut free(the 1 with the compression and air bleeders)after its free you can loosen the rest of the way and lower it gently yo rest on lower fork tube depress  spring far enough to put an open end wrench on the nut just below the top cap,now you can remove the top cap,puul the spring out(it will have oil on it),and take out the damper rod(thin rod that goes from the compression nut down to the cartridge.get a dirty oil container,unless you aregoing to revalve your cartridge dont take it out,while holding top and bottom of forks flip em over to empty oil,when done draining pull the cartridge in and out till it sputters.then you can take a very generous amount of brake cleaner and rinse both parts liberaly set upside down to dry.now to fill ,your manual will tell you how much fluid youll need(about one quart each)flip fork upright and put about half a quart in now pull the cartridge up and down untilyou feel a steady consistant damping,then pump a few more times to make sure its full,then fill the lower tube about a inch from the top.once again consult your manual for proper fluid height,now set your measuring tool add or remove oil to spec.then you can reassemble the same order you took apart.it is very important to have same oil height and weight in each fork!happy wrenching  
---------------- different toilet,same ***

 
jeff150R jeff150R
New User | Posts: 16 | Joined: 01/09
Posted: 01/03/09
10:11 AM

i take my CRF150R to the shop to get fork oil change. its the best way it should be cheap. i get mine done for about 95$  

 
spazmoso spazmoso
Enthusiast | Posts: 564 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 01/04/09
06:53 AM

once you do it your self all the tools and oil for about 100.00,youll have the knowledge and confidance for a bigger project next time.  
---------------- different toilet,same ***

 
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