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Compression testers
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:04 PM
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Can a compression tester for a car give really low readings for a 105? We only got 122 psi after a new ring using a borrowed car compression tester
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:14 PM
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did you try with a drop or two of oil in the cylinder????? Did U try with the throttle closed. It takes several kicks to accurately check this and I still didn't find any specs on it, you can call the service dept at a KTM dealer and ask what is within spec. Your exhaust power valve could be worn or stuck causing some of this "LOW" reading. How well does it pull???? Did you get the X-dimesion correct on the base gasket???
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:21 PM
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No we still havent gotten to checking the stuff you told us the other night. It feels pretty strong and we brought the cylinder into the shop for all the gaskets. We only held the throttle open without dropping oil in the cylinder. A guy said somewhere on this site that the testers for cars that use that long hose show low readings so I was just wondering if its happened to anyone else.
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:28 PM
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Ktms must have the gaskets samwiched between the jug and 2 nuts torqed( piston installed of course-no rings) and you will measure the distance between the top of the edge of the piston and the top of the finished sleeve surface. this is the "X-dimension" Some ktms have more than one base gasket to make this correct. Did you try the ktmtalk forums and do a search????? They got Booku information
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:35 PM
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Yea thats the first place we went haha that place is great. You are supposed to have the piston at the bottom of its stroke right when you measure the x-dimension. And do you know what that measurement should be?
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:39 PM
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Top dead center not bottom. I read that 2006 should be .000 I believe. Measured with a outside caliper(digital or conventional) or a feeler guage. This determines the squish to get the proper compression ratio.
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:46 PM
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So measuring the top of the piston to the top of the finished sleeve surface should be .ooo sorry for asking but where exactly is the top of the sleeve surface
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Posted: 10/23/09 05:57 PM
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it is indented from the head where the brown O-ring seals the combustion chamber, not the water jacket o-ring(black). piston at top of stroke, measure at top of cylinder......not the jug casting where the water jacket passages are.
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Posted: 10/23/09 06:01 PM
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Ok Ill try to look at it tomorrow. Could I have missed something with the powervalve. If I pull everything out will I need a new ring again?
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Posted: 10/23/09 06:13 PM
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No, you wont need a new ring unless it didn't seat correctly and has already scarred up the cylinder. you can check your power valve operation with the exhaust pipe off just to see if it is stuck in the open position. the O ring head gaskets should also be re-usable. Its the base gasket that may need replaced with a smaller size to achieve the correct measurement. Dont pull the jug, just take the head off after draining the coolant. But I will recommend pulling the pipe off to check the power valve first. If you need a parts blowup of it goto www.kawasakisportscenter.com and look under OEM and click on ENGINE and see how its assembled and notice below there are different thickness of base gaskets..........................can U see where I am going with this????
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Posted: 10/23/09 06:29 PM
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Yea I think you may be going to base gasket thickness haha. One last question Im not a familiar with the dirt bikes, how can you tell if the powervalve is stuck in the open position
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Posted: 10/23/09 06:39 PM
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When the engine is not running, the power valve should be down or closed. At low rpms this produces more torque than horsepower, as the rpms rise the vavle opens and lets the exhaust port get taller which ditches the torque for high rpm horsepower. It should be down, closed, not like half open or sumpthin. Take your time and keep checking every loose end and source of info so you can be sure you got it right.
Check out the parts fishe from the website, it tells alot, and you can see the parts listed below and the cost of them as well.
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Posted: 10/23/09 06:44 PM
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Yea I just checked it out it definitely tells alot but where exactly do you look for this opening and closing.
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Posted: 10/23/09 06:59 PM
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take off the pipe and look at the exhaust powervalve. You will have to unbolt the silencer clamp, take off the mounting bolts, and the pipe springs and remove the pipe. Get a light and have a look in there, if you put a ring in it and didn't know what was up the power vavle might be stuck open or not hooked up correctly. There is a inspection cover you can remove also to check the connection.
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