2000 YZ 125 clutch problem???

I have a problem that doesnt affect me to bad right now but i know it will soon. I don't know if its anything real serious or not but my clutch is acting funny. Every time i pull in the clutch it acts like its still engaged but just barely. Usually when i first start my bike up and then i shift into first it will kill my engine or lurch foreward hard and either die or just putt along untile i give it some throttle. I read in the Oct. 2006 issue of dirt rider that maybe a clutch plate might be warped and thats whats causing it but i don't know for sure. so if you can help me with this problem please tell me and if i need to replace it then what all do i need to replace when changing the clutch? Thanks!

Check your oil level, Lever and arm adjustment. Look at things that don't cost first, then you can start looking into the clutch pack.

I have a 450X and If I start it up and try to take off before it has had a chance to warm up and lubericate everything first, it does the same thing, sort of.

What type oil are you using in the gearbox?

Its not uncommon to have a wet-clutch jump a bit first time they are put in gear when cold.  The plates are stuck together.  A couple ways to minimize this are to (before starting) put the bike in gear and with clutch in (disengaged) rock the bike back and forth a couple times to loosen them; or with it running sometimes if you rev it a couple times with the clutch pulled in they will loosen a bit and minimize the lurch.

Double check your cable adjustment as mentioned as well to make sure its not causing the clutch to drag when pulled in.

A warped plate(s) can cause it to drag as well but check the adjustment first before digging in that deep.

Hey thanks guys but i bought my bike from this kid who cleaned it like everyday but i don't know if he changed the oil at all or what cause the brake fluid when i got it was almost black so im going to try and chang the oil. thats the clutch/tranny oil by the way and even when i've ridin for like 5hrs or so it still sticks like when i first start it up

Also if i tighten the clutch cable at the lever to much will it make my clutch not fully engage or is there like something that doesn't allow that to happen? If i does make it not engage all the way how can i tell if itsin the perfact spot? just by feel im guessing but thanks for your input

Blake

If I read your last post correctly; yes, if you take all the slack out at the lever (or even more) you risk hurting the clutch by causing it to slip.

An old rule of thumb is you want about the thickness of a quarter freeplay at the lever before it starts to pull the clutch (in other words, if you pull on the clutch lever to take out any free play, you can slide a quarter between the lever and perch.  Also; this is when the bike is cold.  When it is warm from use the amount of play will change so initially do this when its cold.

You might want to try Bel-Ray Gear saver or another brand 2-stroke gear box oil in it; depending on what was in it you may notice a nice improvement in clutch action and shifting.  If it was as black as you said you may want to change it again after just a few rides to flush all the old out.

Ya you read it correctly sorry if i was a bit brief on it but i was trying to do some other stuff but thanks so much for all your help im going to order some klotz oil and try that and the quarter trick to im pretty sure that will do the trick thanks  

When I went to put new frictions in my clutch, I found out that it was hammered. The bike wasnt engaging smoothly and when we were riding on this rock face, I could really notice it because there was no wheel spin where as in the loose dirt, I couldnt tell. Anyway, when I got the old frictions and disks out, the basket and inner assembly was grooved soo bad. We think that most of it came from the person who we bought the bike from because he raced it and he was older (24 ish maybe) and was probably hard on it. So we had to order the new parts and luckily my dad has a good discount over at honda becuase they knocked off 100 bucks. Stupid Honda OEM mark up. Its ridiculous. Ill try to post a pic later tonight if my dad didnt throw away the old parts.

SOV said it already but check the stuff that is no cost for troubles becouse it can cause little issues. After checking everything your going to want to pull the cover and remove the plates out and start straight edging everything, including measuring for thinkness and of plates and springs for free standing height, and looking for blue or burned discs. Your probly going to find something wrong here so be prepared and have a replacement package ready for install including new fluids and new gaskets so you can prevent leaks. It sounds like the guy keep the bike clean but didnt consider the internals at all so your going to have to watch out for other neglected areas for no grease, old oil filter. 

       

if ur going to replace ur clutch buy a kit.....i have a barnett heavy duty clutch made for abuse.....and u should take a look at ur clutch basket if there are grooves from the plates u should either replace ur basket or do what i did and have ur shop smooth it out  

Thats a good clutch kit. I'm planning to put the "dirt digger" in my bike this winter for next year. Its cheaper than the hinsen and better than the OEM.

yea i love the clutch the springs are a little stiff but i got a msr lever tht lets u adjust how easy the pull is  

Sweat

YZ125_Rider:
<P>I have a problem that doesnt affect me to bad right now but i know it will soon. I don't know if its anything real serious or not but my clutch is acting funny. Every time i pull in the clutch it acts like its still engaged but just barely. Usually when i first start my bike up and then i shift into first it will kill my engine or lurch foreward hard and either die or just putt along untile i give it some throttle. I read in the Oct. 2006 issue of dirt rider that maybe a clutch plate might be warped and thats whats causing it but i don't know for sure. so if you can help me with this problem please tell me and if i need to replace it then what all do i need to replace when changing the clutch? Thanks!</P>

I have a 2001 yz 125 and when I bought my bike used from a guy, whenever I would put my bike into gear, the bike would always lurch forward and when I would pull in the clutch, the gears would still be engaged. Here is my suggestion, take out a can of WD40 and pull in the clutch lever and spray down the clutch cable. The WD should loosen up the clutch plates a little and cut down on the lurch. The gears will always be engaged just a little bit when the clutch is pulled even when the WD is used. This is normal. This is what I did on my bike and it worked like a charm. You can also work the clutch while warming up your bike to help keep the clutch plates from sticking as much when you start to ride. If this doesn't work, I would replace the clutch plates. Best of luck and good ridin'!