breaks

so i just put in new breaks on my 2001 kx85. I am 100 percent sure i did this correctly. The only problem is the front tire does not really spin to free like it used to. The break pads are touching the disc. If i spun the tire decently hard the tire would probably spin maybe 5 to 10 times around. Before i did the breaks the tire would spin freely for a while. On the other hand when i spin the tire and apply the front breaks, it breaks fine. What did i do wrong or what do i need to do to fix the situation. Is it just because the break pads are new and allot thicker so they need to wear down a bit or what.  Please help  

yes they most likely need to wear down.  
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"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing some people out there having fun on motorcycles. It makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen

Are they tight enough to cause too much heat and warp the rotor?  
__________
"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing some people out there having fun on motorcycles. It makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen

i am unsure this is the first time doing the breaks. There not tight like wow the tire barley moves  but they dont spin freely to easily.  

As Dagg said they most likely need to wear in.

When you put the front tire back on did you install it as stated in the manual. Tighten down one side, compress the forks, tighten down other side?  
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I love this dirt stuff.

Sounds normal

Were the rotor discs worn, did you check for run-out?

Did you open any bleeder?

Check you brake fluid level, with new meat on the pads the level may now be too high.

you should buy the shop book............really

You should change the brake fluid.....the bad discs you took off had very little lining left, more heat is passed to the brake fluid. Yhe fluid breaks down.

its easy to change the fluid and makes a difference.

The front brake is very important...(we know) take the extra care now.  
bald as a bean..old as your dad..but rides like a fool

the pads also must seat themselves  
---------------- different toilet,same ***

I agree with the others.  As long as when you spin it its not binding up; take it for a 15 minute ride and use the front brakes.  Then see how it spins.  
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Dave H 2006 YZ250
(2008 YZ 125 son)

how do i bleed the breaks. I got a manual but its horrible. What are the steps i do. All new pads front and back are installed.  

This is easier to understand with photos, but maybe the steps themselves will help you bleed the brakes.

Bleeding Brake Lines & Calipers
By Karel Kramer
Photos by Alyson Fletcher
In the past Dirt Rider has illustrated the proper methods of bleeding brake systems, but each time those processes assumed that you have good pedal or lever to pump the fluid through. If you have changed the brake line, the process is a bit tougher. If you change the caliper, then the entire system is nearly dry, and it takes some tricks to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. You will need to buy some products, but the price should less than $10.00 for the lot. You will also need proper brake fluid and paper towels. At some point a helper is almost vital.
1. The easiest way to refill a dry system is to force-bleed it from the bottom. You could use a squirt bottle, a large syringe or even the tool you use to suck oil out of a fork while setting the oil height. Brake systems are not compatible with oil, so if you use a tool that has been used before, it must be clinically cleaned with brake cleaner before you start. We bought a pump-type oil can for less that five dollars at Harbor Freight, then labeled it for brake fluid. It will be used only for brake systems.
2. You will also need a couple of feet of clean carburetor vent hose. Cut a section and force it over the oil can’s outlet. We like to safety-wire the hose to the can. If the hose were to blow off from pressure, it will make a nasty mess. Worse, brake fluid can eat paint, so you want to check your surroundings before you begin.
3. Whenever possible, but especially when filling a system, start with a new, sealed unopened container of brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air, and the more water it contain, the less heat-stable it is. Note that our oil can is painted. The paint is beginning to be affected by the fluid, but the inside of the can is not painted. Just make sure no paint flakes get inside the can.
4. Put the bike on a stand, and for the front brake, loosen the bar clamp to rotate the master cylinder reservoir so it is level. Then remove the reservoir cap. For the rear brake, remove the cap. In the case of a remote brake reservoir, unbolt it from the frame to have easy access for filling the reservoir.
5. If you are working with the front brake, loosen the caliper bolts. You might want to leave them in a couple of threads until you crack the bolt that holds the line to the caliper. If you are changing the brake line, take the wheel off, and making sure the reservoir does not run dry, pump the brake pads out until they are almost touching. The will get the maximum amount of brake fluid in the caliper.
6. Loosen and remove the lower brake line fitting quickly. We were changing out the caliper to return this bike to stock, so it wasn’t important for us, but if you are changing the line only, hold the caliper with the point the hose attaches up. After you remove the line, set the caliper down with the fitting hole up to prevent fluid loss. If the line has a banjo fitting it will have copper or aluminum washers on both sides of the fitting. They should be replaced with new ones.
7. If you are changing the brake line, attach it at the master cylinder. Fill the cylinder, and keep it filled while the letting the fluid gravity-bleed into the line. When you start getting fluid out the bottom, bolt to the caliper and mount it back on the fork. Spreading the brake pads will push enough fluid back up the line to help with the bleeding. Put a wrench on the bleeder fitting, and attach the filled oil can’s line.
8. Wrap the master cylinder with paper towels, open the bleeder valve and use the pump trigger to force brake fluid up through the line. This works if you are replacing the caliper or the line. When you have fluid without bubbles in the reservoir, shut the bleeder valve and remove the oil can hose.
9. Hopefully have resistance at the lever at this point. We didn’t. If you don’t, play with the brake lever. Pull and release it rapidly, and pull the lever in and let it snap out. Use a screwdriver handle to lightly tap the side of the reservoir. Push the brake line down so it bows farther down towards the caliper, but so there is no loop above the master cylinder.
10. While the snap the brake lever out, you will see bubble like this rise in the fluid. Keep pumping and flicking the lever until you no longer see bubbles in the fluid. Sometimes tapping lightly on the brake line will help as well.
11. Even when we stopped getting bubble up top, there was still not a firm lever. Use more of the carburetor vent hose (Moose Racing or Sudco) to make a loop like this one. Use two zip-ties to hold the loop. Put a wrench on the bleeder valve, force the hose over the nipple and run the other end into a container. We used a plastic water bottle with a hole drilled in the cap. Have a helper squeeze and hold the brake, then crack the bleeder valve and then immediately lock it back down.
12. As soon as we cracked the bleeder, air came out, and we got a fairly solid lever. The oil can actually added bubbles to the fluid as we pumped due to cavitation, so we had our helper repeatedly pump and hold the lever and keep the fluid level up. Each time he would hold the lever, we would crack the bleeder. As soon as the fluid all the way around the loop in the hose, no air can back into the caliper. We opened the bleeder valve, and simply pumped the fluid through with the lever. We kept the reservoir filled, and stopped when we no longer saw even small bubbles exiting the caliper into the hose loop.
All that is left is to make sure the reservoir level is correct and button things up. Remember that the screws holding the master cylinder cap call for next to no torque. We don’t even have a wrench that reads low enough, so they go barely past finger tight. Now the brake system show be leak-free and ready to do business.  

My first thought would be what KK said, Just give the bleeder a quick twist and it will most likely help release some rpessure and the wheel will spin more freely. Had to do that to my friends bike over the weeknd and it took 30 seconds.  
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____________________
MIKE
Phoenix, az
(07 yz250)
(99 yz125)


Every bush has its day (sanders, 2009)
Lack of enthusiasm is for the weak and timid. (alex, a.k.a. yz250 forever)

"I know much about nothing at all"(Maple, 2009)

thanks guys